[Update 8 December 2013: An updated recoil post of the Fogger v2 can be viewed here]
The Fogger v2. What can I say about this versatile little devil besides how much I love and hate it at the same time!
Ever since I got my hands on the Fogger v2 about a month ago, I’ve been experiencing interment problems with shorting and wicking, and to make things worse, the unit that I have suffered from some manufacturing defects.
After countless hours of recoiling and trying to identify the cause of the short, I have finally been able to solve them and I would like to share how I achieved this with you today. Hopefully you will find this short guide helpful in some way!
I opened this post by calling the Fogger v2 a versatile atty as it can accommodate a variety of builds. So far, I have successfully tried builds with silica wick, cotton wick and even microcoils with cotton wool. Today I will be showing you how I set up the Fogger v2 with a simple cotton wick.
Since I had shorting issues, I decided to take apart the whole bottom section of the Fogger v2. When it comes out of the box, this section is screwed on pretty tight, so unless you start experiencing shorting issues, I suggest that you don’t force it open.
Because of the way the Fogger v2 is built, it relies on a series of insulators to prevent it from shorting. The middle insulator is one of the more sensitive ones as it sits right below the coil. If your coil sits too low / close to it, the insulator will melt and give off a burnt rubber taste. I remedied this by cutting off the top lip of the insulator.
Turning that section over, I pushed out the positive post and replaced the insulator around it. My previous insulator was damaged and wasn’t preventing the positive post from touching the base. It caused a short because the negative post is soldered onto the base. Here I used a new insulator that I found in my AGA-T spare kit and it worked like a dream.
The third possible cause for shorts is located at the 510 connector screw. and a quick and simple fix for this is by placing the smallest o-ring from the Fogger v2’s repair kit into the screw hole before inserting the 510 adjuster screw. This insulates the sides of the screw from touching the base.
With these three fixes in place, I was ready to begin coiling. Today I decided to do a simple cotton wick coil and used AWG28 kanthal and a piece of facial cotton from my girlfriend’s cosmetic drawer. I cut off a thin strip and rolled it into a wick.
I then wrapped the kanthal six times around the cotton. When coiling for the Fogger v2, I’m very careful to coil in a way that puts the leads below the wick. This is to ensure that the coil doesn’t end up sitting too close to the center insulator. However, since I had already modified my center insulator, I decided to let the leads sit on top this time so my wick could sit a little lower. This allows a marginally cooler vape since the coil is a little further from your driptip.
After tightening down my leads, I primed the cotton wick with some eliquid. It is very important to prime your wick when using cotton before test firing because pulsing a dry cotton wick will set it on fire. It fired away without any problems, and that meant the steps which I took to insulate the electrical points were successful. I was pretty happy at this point since I couldn’t even fire the Fogger v2 before this rebuild.
I then trimmed down the ends of the cotton wick. If you notice from the picture above, I left a little bit hanging out the edges. What I didn’t photograph was how I then tucked the ends of the wick back into the chamber and used them to close the drain from the inside. In my experience, leaving the edges of a cotton wick outside the drain would cause flooding / over wicking. However, if you’re using silica wick instead, you want to leave a little hanging out.
I then screwed on the chamber cap and test fired again. I didn’t encounter any problems since my coil was set at a low position, but you might get shorts / sparks if the coil is placed too high up. This is because the top of the coil could touch the bottom of the chamber cap.
I then used a syringe to fill up the tank with my favorite eliquid – Vanilla Custard from Dragon Juice. I found that the chamber would flood if you fill by using the normal plastic tip on juice bottles. This is because the Fogger v2’s wicking system works on pressure, and if you introduce too much pressure into the tank, liquid would be forced into the chamber and result in a flood. Unless your wick is setup to absorb access liquid in the base of the chamber, you will get gurgling if it floods this way.
Finally, I screwed on the top cap, took a final picture and felt happy with what I achieved today. Hopefully all the measures that I took to insulate the electrical flow will work out in the long run, and if you have encountered any similar shorting problems in the past, maybe these quick tips could help you too.