Repairing / rebuilding the Fogger v2


[Update 8 December 2013: An updated recoil post of the Fogger v2 can be viewed here]

The Fogger v2. What can I say about this versatile little devil besides how much I love and hate it at the same time!

Ever since I got my hands on the Fogger v2 about a month ago, I’ve been experiencing interment problems with shorting and wicking, and to make things worse, the unit that I have suffered from some manufacturing defects.

After countless hours of recoiling and trying to identify the cause of the short, I have finally been able to solve them and I would like to share how I achieved this with you today. Hopefully you will find this short guide helpful in some way!

IMG_00001007I opened this post by calling the Fogger v2 a versatile atty as it can accommodate a variety of builds. So far, I have successfully tried builds with silica wick, cotton wick and even microcoils with cotton wool. Today I will be showing you how I set up the Fogger v2 with a simple cotton wick.

Since I had shorting issues, I decided to take apart the whole bottom section of the Fogger v2. When it comes out of the box, this section is screwed on pretty tight, so unless you start experiencing shorting issues, I suggest that you don’t force it open.

IMG_00001008Because of the way the Fogger v2 is built, it relies on a series of insulators to prevent it from shorting. The middle insulator is one of the more sensitive ones as it sits right below the coil. If your coil sits too low / close to it, the insulator will melt and give off a burnt rubber taste. I remedied this by cutting off the top lip of the insulator.

IMG_00001009Turning that section over, I pushed out the positive post and replaced the insulator around it. My previous insulator was damaged and wasn’t preventing the positive post from touching the base. It caused a short because the negative post is soldered onto the base. Here I used a new insulator that I found in my AGA-T spare kit and it worked like a dream.

IMG_00001011The third possible cause for shorts is located at the 510 connector screw. and a quick and simple fix for this is by placing the smallest o-ring from the Fogger v2’s repair kit into the screw hole before inserting the 510 adjuster screw. This insulates the sides of the screw from touching the base.

IMG_00001015With these three fixes in place, I was ready to begin coiling. Today I decided to do a simple cotton wick coil and used AWG28 kanthal and a piece of facial cotton from my girlfriend’s cosmetic drawer. I cut off a thin strip and rolled it into a wick.

IMG_00001016I then wrapped the kanthal six times around the cotton. When coiling for the Fogger v2, I’m very careful to coil in a way that puts the leads below the wick. This is to ensure that the coil doesn’t end up sitting too close to the center insulator. However, since I had already modified my center insulator, I decided to let the leads sit on top this time so my wick could sit a little lower. This allows a marginally cooler vape since the coil is a little further from your driptip.


After tightening down my leads, I primed the cotton wick with some eliquid. It is very important to prime your wick when using cotton before test firing because pulsing a dry cotton wick will set it on fire. It fired away without any problems, and that meant the steps which I took to insulate the electrical points were successful. I was pretty happy at this point since I couldn’t even fire the Fogger v2 before this rebuild.

IMG_00001019I then trimmed down the ends of the cotton wick. If you notice from the picture above, I left a little bit hanging out the edges. What I didn’t photograph was how I then tucked the ends of the wick back into the chamber and used them to close the drain from the inside. In my experience, leaving the edges of a cotton wick outside the drain would cause flooding / over wicking. However, if you’re using silica wick instead, you want to leave a little hanging out.

IMG_00001021I then screwed on the chamber cap and test fired again. I didn’t encounter any problems since my coil was set at a low position, but you might get shorts / sparks if the coil is placed too high up. This is because the top of the coil could touch the bottom of the chamber cap.

IMG_00001022I then used a syringe to fill up the tank with my favorite eliquid – Vanilla Custard from Dragon Juice. I found that the chamber would flood if you fill by using the normal plastic tip on juice bottles. This is because the Fogger v2’s wicking system works on pressure, and if you introduce too much pressure into the tank, liquid would be forced into the chamber and result in a flood. Unless your wick is setup to absorb access liquid in the base of the chamber, you will get gurgling if it floods this way.


Finally, I screwed on the top cap, took a final picture and felt happy with what I achieved today. Hopefully all the measures that I took to insulate the electrical flow will work out in the long run, and if you have encountered any similar shorting problems in the past, maybe these quick tips could help you too.

IMG_00001025Happy vaping guys!


21 Comments Add yours

  1. Yazmir says:

    Do you put back your o-ring?

    1. Vaping Wern says:

      Hi Yazmir,

      No I do not use the o-ring. As long as your wicking is done correctly then you do not need the o-ring. If you find the tank flooding then try cutting your wicks shorter.

      Hope this helps!


  2. gaban says:

    hi…do u sell fogger v2?

    1. Vaping Wern says:

      Sorry Gaban, I’m not a seller.

      1. gaban says:

        where do u buy?

      2. Vaping Wern says:

        Where are you located? If you’re in Malaysia then I can point out some sellers on Facebook. If you’re overseas then I can’t really help you buddy.

      3. gaban says:

        im from malaysia…

      4. Vaping Wern says:

        I purchased my Fogger from this guy. Drop him a message on Facebook and see if he can hook you up 🙂

      5. gaban says:

        ty wern 4 info

  3. remnant says:

    I’ve had my Fogger three days now, and I just made my second successful rebuild, after more failures than I can count. Lots of flooding. Lots. I’m using cotton wool, & I’ve found that trimming the ends of the wick to about 7-8mm outside the chamber, then folding them back in and tucking them down into the deck has solved the flooding problem. The trailing ends soak up any juice that would otherwise build up on the deck, and drop into the air hole.
    My Fogger showed up without the o-ring over the wick channels, but I have put in a 14mm o-ring, which means the chimney doesn’t have to be screwed down so far, and there’s more thread at the top of the chimney for the top cap to screw onto. Without that o-ring, there was barely a full turn for the top cap to hold onto.
    Once its set up right, it’s a fantastic vape, though. Really tasty.

    1. Vaping Wern says:

      failing isn’t a problem if you learn why you failed. i was completely flustered by setting it up with silica until I recently realized that the ends getting tugged down when inserting the glass cover was causing my silica to tighten and result in flooding.

      i still haven’t managed to set it up with mesh tho, but a friend of mine is recommending a mesh / ekowool hybrid. will try that soon and let you guys know how it worked out 🙂

  4. azmyth says:

    how do u open the below section? I had tried to open it but its damn to tight..

    1. Vaping Wern says:

      the bottom section on my fogger actually came off pretty easy. i guess you could call it a happy accident? my advice is to lodge in a screwdriver to the gutter part of the deck, and grip the airflow ring firmly while trying to unscrew it. give that a try, but please dont damage your gutters. 🙂

      1. azmyth says:

        hahaha..i had already tried that but it still won’t budge.. luckily for me i had accross this video on how to open below section.. after open it i found that the insulator had damage and i had replace it.. thanks dude..u’r tips really help a lot.. vape on.. 😀

      2. Vaping Wern says:

        Wah! They used torque wrench?! I just used my hands hahaha!! Great to know that the tips helped. The thing that could cause the insulator to break in the first place could be over tightening from the factory 🙂

  5. Michael says:

    where can I get the tiny positive post replacement screw and insulator

    1. Vaping Wern says:

      I’m sorry buddy, but I have absolutely no idea where to get the spares.

  6. sup3rshrp13 says:

    When i bought my fogger v2 from a uk ebay seller it came with enough spares to carry out these upgrades. I find the glass tank to be very fragile and smashed it in the first week of use. My replacement glass came today and is of a higher quality than the glass that came with the fogger. Anyone have any tips on how the glass tank can be protected a little more?

  7. Razlan says:

    Hi Vaping Wern. Glad to hear you’ve got this thing to work like a charm. I think I’ve set it up properly, but perhaps not optimally. I keep getting dry-ish hits. As in the vape is not a burnt taste, just that it’s a little too dry, which just SHOULD NOT BE. I’m using cotton for wicking purposes and 30gague kanthal making a coil with resistance of 1.2ohms. Airflow holes are all open, but the vapour is not as massive nor too impressive. I am not using the o-ring under the “chimney” thingie. But was told it wasn’t really necessary. Wonder what I’m doing wrong.

  8. don says:

    Where do you get the spare insulators, specifically the one on the bottom of the positive post?

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