When I first started vaping, I fell into the same mindset as a lot of newbies tend to, and started to believe that you had to spend a lot of money on expensive gear to achieve a good vape.
Thankfully, I have discovered over the months that this isn’t always the case. As you can see from my previous postings, I really love my AGA-T2. It’s affordable and versatile, and when set up right, can produce one hell of a vape. Another champion atty that comes in at under the RM100 mark (even as low as RM80 now from D-Wap!) is the Fogger, and if there’s one atty that I love more than the AGA-T2 it’s got to be this one.
Yesterday, you saw me tinkering with my AGA-T2. Satisfied with the results, I turned my attention to another budget atty that usually gets overlooked pretty quickly – the humble EVOD BCC.
Set up in pretty much the same fashion as a Kanger Protank, the EVOD BCC is a beginner tank that’s built to sit on an Ego device. Broken down into three pieces – the base, the coil head, and the tank – the EVOD BCC’s coil head isn’t marketed as being rebuildable. However, if you disect it, you’ll notice that it is set up in the same way as a Vivi Nova head.
For this recoil I used:
1) 30awg kanthal
2) Cotton wool
3) EVOD BCC coil head
4) Miscellaneous recoiling implements (wire cutter, pliers, etc)
The first thing that you’ll need to do is to disassemble the existing coil head. To do this, first remove the rubber cap on top. Once that’s off, use your pliers to take off the knurled metal top cap on the coil head. It should be fastened in pretty tightly, so I recommend that you screw your coil head into the base for better grip while pulling off the top cap.
With the top section now opened up, it’s time to turn your attention to the bottom section of the coil. Here you’ll see three layers of material – a metal bottom pin, a rubber insulator, and the coil main body.
Start by pulling off the metal bottom pin. You can jam a screwdriver between the bottom pin and the rubber insulator, or just use a pair of pliers to yank it out. Once it’s out, remove the rubber insulator layer. These two pieces hold the coil legs down, and once they are removed, the coil should drop out of the coil head.
The next step is to build your microcoil. I won’t go into detail on how to do this, but basically I coiled 7 wraps of 30awg kanthal tightly around a screwdriver, pressed it together with my pliers and flamed it with my torch. The key to a good set of microcoils is to ensure that each coil touches the next, and if the coils don’t all touch, you’ll end up with ohm readings that fly all over the place.
Now take a bit of cotton and roll one end it into a wick, but before you thread it into the microcoil, tear your cotton into half. Why? Well, you’re always going to start off with too much cotton no matter what. Trust me 🙂
Thread your rolled end into the microcoil and lightly pull from the other side. If you face difficulties pulling in the bushy end of the cotton through the microcoils then you’re still using too much cotton. For my coil, the cotton was able to thread in without any problems, and I could slide the cotton back and forth through the microcoil without any resistance. You don’t want any more cotton than that, but you could get away with less cotton without flooding!
For the next step, you want to cut one of your coil’s legs shorter than the other. The shorter leg will be the negative leg, while the longer leg will be the positive leg. If you notice, my coil legs are extremely long compared to what I’d normally coil for the Fogger. This is because the legs need to travel all the way down the coil head.
Now thread both legs of the coil into the coil head, but bend the negative leg (the shorter one) once it threads through. Take the rubber insulator and thread the positive leg through it. Attach the rubber insulator and use it to pin down the bent negative leg.
With the rubber insulator firmly in place, bend the positive leg (the longer one) over the rubber insulator and attach the metal bottom pin. Both the rubber insulator and metal pin should fit snugly, and once they’re both in place, trim off the excess kanthal as close as you can to the base.
The last thing to do now is to put back the metal top cap on and trim down the ends of the cotton wick. Unlike the Fogger, the length of the trim here is very forgiving. I just aligned my cutter to the base of the coil head and snipped away.
Now that it’s all set up, just screw the coil head into the base of your EVOD BCC, fill up the tank with your favorite eliquid and start vaping!
Attaching the EVOD BCC to my Ego, I had no idea what resistance I was running or how it would perform. I closed off all the vent holes and gave it a drag or two to prime the cotton and went to town with it. Damn was I surprised…
The amount of vapor it produced was one thing. As you can see from the video above, it is pretty darn impressive for a setup as humble as an EVOD BCC on an Ego. However, what impressed me the most was the flavor that I managed to get from this setup. It was full flavored, full bodied and utterly delicious!
Due to the amount of vapor it produced I kinda expected the ohm reading to be on the low side, but after plugging it onto my eVic, I got a 1.5ohm. Not bad.
All in all, I was pretty damned impressed by how the EVOD BCC performed after a little tweaking. Although it might seem like I went through a lot of trouble to get it working as such, I can honestly tell you that the whole process took just about 10 minutes to complete from start to end. Give it a try, and let me know how it works out for you!